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Quick answer

For DIY under desk cable management, screw a small wire basket to the underside of the desk, set the power strip inside with air around it, and hold the cords to the desk leg with reusable hook-and-loop tape. That is a DIY cable tray, a DIY cord organizer and a DIY wire management setup in one build, with three parts: a basket, short screws and a tape roll. It takes about half an hour and uses a drill for pilot holes, so it is not a renter-friendly method; if you cannot drill, use the clamp-on approach in how to hide cables under desk. The main safety rule is to keep power strips and bricks uncovered, so air can move around them.

Quick compare: the products in this guide

Sizes come from the Amazon listings as we read them; check the product page for the current details before you buy.

ProductListed detailsLink
White Wire Under-Shelf Storage Basket, 10-Inch11 x 10 x 4.63 in; 1 lbSee details on Amazon Affiliate link
BNUOK 247Pcs Pan Head Wood Screws Assortment Kit, #6#8 Black Oxide Stainless…247 pieces; #6 x 1/2 in (90 pcs)See details on Amazon Affiliate link
Hitotsu 100ft x 1/2 in Hook and Loop Roll, Reusable Fastening Tape Cable Ties100 ft long; 0.47 in wideSee details on Amazon Affiliate link

Lifting the monitor frees space for cables; see monitor stands with storage.

Before routing cables, make sure the desk fits the space: compare compact computer desks for small spaces.

What you need

The sizes below come from the listings we read on 2026-10-01. We have not tested these products or built this exact setup; the steps are our own plan, and the arithmetic is shown so you can redo it with your measurements.

PartExample listingSize or count from the listing
Wire basketWhite Wire Under-Shelf Storage Basket, 10-Inch (ASIN B012THNWVU)11 in deep x 10 in wide x 4.63 in high; 1 lb
ScrewsBNUOK 247 pc pan head wood screw kit (ASIN B0FMF5MB7D)90 x #6 x 1/2 in, 77 x #6 x 5/8 in, 45 x #8 x 3/4 in, 35 x #8 x 1 in
Hook-and-loop tapeHitotsu 100 ft x 1/2 in reusable roll (ASIN B0FDH44TBR)100 ft long, about 0.47 in wide

You also need a pencil, a tape measure, a drill with a bit slightly thinner than the screw, and a screwdriver. The basket listing is aimed at pantries and shelves, and the text we read does not state a load rating or a desk use. That is one more reason to keep the load light, as explained below.

Step 1: Measure the desk and your gear

Measure the thickness of the desktop. Particleboard desks are often around 3/4 inch, but measure yours. Weigh the strip and power bricks. Measure the length of the strip.

Example with our own assumed numbers, not from a listing: a 3 lb strip and two 1.5 lb bricks weigh 3 + 1.5 + 1.5 = 6 lb. Add the basket’s 1 lb and the total is 7 lb, hanging from four screws. That is a modest load, but the screws go into the desktop’s edge zone, so keep the basket near the back edge, where the desktop is usually reinforced by the frame.

Step 2: Choose the screw length

The screw must not poke through the top of the desk. A simple rule, our own margin, not a standard: screw length should be at most the desktop thickness minus 1/4 inch. For a 3/4 inch desktop that is 0.75 − 0.25 = 0.5 inch, so the #6 x 1/2 in screws from the kit fit, and the 5/8 in, 3/4 in and 1 in screws do not. Note that the basket’s wire thickness also counts: if you pass the screw through a flange or use a washer, subtract that too, which leaves less thread in the wood. On a thin desktop, use a clamp or the no-drill method in our other guide instead.

Step 3: Place the basket

Hold the basket against the underside, 4 to 6 inches in from the back edge and clear of the desk’s legs and crossbars. Mark the screw holes with a pencil. Keep the basket where your knees will not hit it: with a basket height of 4.63 inches, a desk with a 26 inch under-desk clearance (an example) leaves 26 − 4.63 = 21.4 inches below it, which is more than enough for knees.

Step 4: Drill and fix

Drill pilot holes to a depth of less than the screw length, then drive the screws until the basket is snug. Do not overtighten, since particleboard strips easily. Tug the basket firmly; if it moves, add a fourth screw or switch to a washer.

Step 5: Load the strip with air around it

Set the power strip in the basket and plug it directly into the wall outlet. ESFI says multiple-outlet strips must be plugged directly into wall receptacles, and cannot be chained together, and that covered cords cannot release heat. A wire basket helps here, because mesh lets air through, but only if you do not stuff it.

Example with assumed sizes: the basket is 10 inches wide and an example strip is 8.5 inches long, which leaves 10 − 8.5 = 1.5 inches of space. Put the bricks beside the strip, not on top of it, and do not drape cables over them. If the basket looks full, move a brick to the desk leg with a loop of tape.

Never block a power brick that feels hot. ESFI’s advice is to stop using a cord that feels hot or is damaged.

Step 6: Bundle and run the cords

Cut hook-and-loop tape into pieces. A piece that wraps around a bundle needs at least the bundle’s circumference. Example: a 1 inch bundle has a circumference of about π × 1 = 3.14 inches, so a 5 inch strip leaves 5 − 3.14 = 1.86 inches to overlap. A 100 ft roll is 1,200 inches, so 1,200 ÷ 5 = 240 strips, far more than a desk needs. Place a strip every 8 to 12 inches, our estimate, along the run to the leg, and fasten the bundle to the leg.

For a standing desk, do not tie the bundle tight where the desk moves; leave a loop. The 20 inch travel example in how to hide cables under desk applies here too.

A second build: cable notch for a DIY desk

If you are building your own desk top, cable management is easier before assembly than after. Cut a notch in the back edge, sized to the largest plug on a cord (measure the plug head, then add a margin of a quarter inch), and sand the edge so it does not nick the cords. Mount the basket under the notch. A desk made this way needs no clips on the desktop surface, and the layout is covered in how to maximize space on a small desk. If you would rather buy a finished tray than build one, our small desk cable management guide covers ready-made options.

Tools and checks before you start

Lay out everything on the floor first and dry-fit the basket against the underside so you can see where your knees, the desk’s crossbar and the cord entry points fall. A basket that looks small on a screen is easy to misplace by an inch or two, and an inch matters when the desk frame sits close to the back edge. Check three things with a tape measure: the gap between the basket and the nearest crossbar, the distance from the basket to the wall outlet, and whether a drawer or keyboard tray slides past it.

Pilot holes should be a little thinner than the screw’s thread, so the thread still bites. Mark the drill bit with a strip of tape at the depth you want, so you stop before breaking through the top; with a 1/2 inch screw in a 3/4 inch top, a pilot hole depth of 3/8 inch keeps you well clear. That depth is our own margin. If the desk is hollow-core or veneered thin board, do not screw into it at all; use the clamp-on option instead.

After the build, test it for a week. Check that the basket has not shifted, that the strip is not warm to the touch, and that no cord rubs on a wire edge. Round off any sharp wire ends with tape if a cord brushes them.

Is DIY worth it?

DIY gives you control over sizes and it is good if you already own a drill and screws. The basket build above has real limits, though:

  • It needs holes in the desk.
  • The basket is not made for desks, and its load rating is not stated.
  • A finished clamp-on tray, such as the one with a stated desk-thickness range and 15 lb load in the other guide’s listing, is faster for a renter.

Choose DIY if you own the desk and want a custom fit; skip it if you rent or if the desktop is thin.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Using screws longer than the desktop allows.
  • Stuffing the basket so the strip has no air.
  • Chaining a second strip into the first.
  • Hanging a heavy UPS or a full-size power supply from a basket with no stated load rating.
  • Tight bundles on a standing desk.

Frequently asked questions

How do I make a DIY under desk cable tray?

Screw a small wire basket to the underside of the desk with short screws, put the power strip inside with air around it, and tie the cords to the leg.

What screw length is safe for a desktop?

Use a screw that stays well inside the thickness; our margin is desktop thickness minus 1/4 inch, so 1/2 inch for a 3/4 inch top.

Can I put a power strip in a basket?

Yes, if it is plugged straight into the wall and not covered or chained, and the mesh is not packed with cables.

Is a DIY cable tray cheaper than a bought one?

It depends on what you already own; we do not quote prices, so check current listings.

Can I do this in a rental?

Not without drilling. Use a clamp-on tray and adhesive clips instead.

Products worth checking

We have not tested these products. Sizes and features come from the Amazon listings as we read them; where a listing does not say, we say so.

White Wire Under-Shelf Storage Basket, 10-Inch

11 x 10 x 4.63 in; 1 lb

  • Keep in mind: we have not tested it, and the listing may show more than one size or finish, so pick the variant that matches your numbers.
See details on Amazon Affiliate link

BNUOK 247Pcs Pan Head Wood Screws Assortment Kit, #6#8 Black Oxide Stainless Steel 304

247 pieces; #6 x 1/2 in (90 pcs)

  • Keep in mind: we have not tested it, and the listing may show more than one size or finish, so pick the variant that matches your numbers.
See details on Amazon Affiliate link

Hitotsu 100ft x 1/2 in Hook and Loop Roll, Reusable Fastening Tape Cable Ties

100 ft long; 0.47 in wide

  • Keep in mind: we have not tested it, and the listing may show more than one size or finish, so pick the variant that matches your numbers.
See details on Amazon Affiliate link

Sources checked

Specifications come from the Amazon listings as we read them for this guide. Product details and availability can change, so confirm on the product page before you buy.

How we research our guides